Robert Fromont

Stranger in an Even Stranger Land

Nothing to write home about

Chacarita cemetery

Thursday, 27 Dec 2007 - 5:30AM

Chacarita - urbanParthenonI've been told by some New Zealanders that after spending some time in the city, a visit to Chacarita Cemetery becomes a necessity.  Not so much as a tourist must-see, nor out of any particular respect for anyone who may be in reposing there, but rather because it's possibly the biggest greenest accessible open space in Buenos Aires, and, particularly on hot summer days, it's a cool, quiet break from the stifling chaos of the city.
  Seeing as I'm a city-type person, even after three years I haven't found this particular escape necessary, but we thought it might be nice to go visit anyway. 
Windows of ChacaritaTroubled angel in the city I had already visited the more famous Recoleta Cemetery early on, which I found very different from the NZ idea of a cemetery - it's more like a mini-city, complete with city-blocks and lack of greenery (there's a picture here). Chacarita, after passing through the parthenonesque entrance, turned out to be very similar - lot's of extremely stately mausoleums with all kinds of grandiose adornments, statues, etc. organized in neat urban rows.
Chacarita - the slum However, we discovered that Chacarita has more interment options on offer; venturing further into the cemetary we encountered a kind of subterranian tenenement block - all concrete and near-anonymity, this seems to be a more democratic option with fewer pretentions.
Chacarita - rural Wandering further, I discovered that there's even a zone (presumably expensive as it lacks the spatial efficiency of urban- and tenement- Chacarita) that a New Zealander would more readily recognize as "cemetery" - graves dug in the green earth, complete with headstones or crosses.
All of Chacarita cemetery is walled in, and as we approached our nearest exit, we discovered a fourth 'burial' choice, more science-fiction in style than the others - it turns out that the wall of the cemetery itself is build of tombs.
Chacarita - The Matrix But to confirm the rumour - yes Chacarita is a cool, breezy, open space compared to the city...